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Indian Rock

Indian Rock is possibly the most historic bouldering area in the US, and has a rich history of climbing, with the piton scars to prove it. Location: Indian Rock is in North Berkeley, just past the Marin Circle. To get there from Berkeley, head out MLK, and turn right on Marin, go around the circle and get off on Arlington/Indian Rock (just past the other side of Marin), and veer right. Head up the hill about a half mile, and the rock is on your left. Watch out for red parking zones.

Areas: Indian Rock proper has a good deal of climbing spots, and there is also Picnic Table wall across the street and Mortar Rock just up the street. In Indian Rock, there is the Drinking Fountain Wall, right at the south-east corner, with The Block on the east portion of the rock, Ape's Boulder right at the sidewalk, Beginner's Slab above the stairs down, and The Pit down the stairs. (A Map will be here, soon) Range: With it's history, Indian Rock really has something for anyone, but sometimes it's not always easy to find it. The majority of the routes I know of are basic through V3ish (up to mid 5.11s), as well as a handfull of problems that I can't even figure out how to start. Indian Rock is also really big on Eliminate type problems, so keep that in mind when doing a route, if it's too easy, take out those two best holds.

White Stripe

At Picnic Table Wall (across the street from Indian Rock).

Near to the left side, there is a white streak about 3 feet wide. Everything inside this is on. Everything outside is off.

The pic is somewhat confusing, but the path runs straight up the middle. If you are there, the white is far more apparent. It's also slick! Enjoy

Picnic Table Wall

Across the street from Indian rock, and down the path a little, it's the "steep drop" on the left that the big sign warns about.

The wall has a few good ascension problems, but the highlight is a startlingly difficult traverse. I say startling, because it's way worse than it looks. Almost all the footholds are slick as ice, and smaller than one would like. It is a different world from Indian Rock.

In all the best ways, it is a maddening technical challenge.

Beginner's Crack

Beginner's Crack is located just to the left of Watercourse and right of Transportation.

Location

United States
37° 53' 32.1576" N, 122° 16' 23.0556" W
See map: Google Maps

Watercourse

A classic Indian Rock problem. Immediatly right of the boulder in the Pit.

You start with your feet directly under the bucket, and climb towards the big bucket that is clearly visible in the picture.

[beta]
Normally, you'll want to start somewhat stemmed out, hands bracing far right, climb up onto the low bits coming up on the right. Climb to the right, get situated, then traverse left, along a nice flake to the bucket. Don't go too far up in the center of the climb, or else you've just wasted effort and have to downclimb some to the bucket.

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